The final Full Plenary Session for UK MEPs, where parliament was to pass the Withdrawal Act into EU law was, as I said in my last Post, an emotionally charged event; characterised by regret and sober reflection. But it meant that the UK would be starting its rapid home run to the EXIT that has dominated political debate in this country for the last few years.
I had decided to locate myself in a very significant city – Berlin. I wanted to be somewhere that would focus my thoughts, a city that has witness so much that is relevant to European history, in a country that is now its dominant economic force.
My ever reliable Frommer’s Europe on ten dollars a day (1978 edition) tells me, ‘The city lives on the brink of danger; its citizens live from day to day.’ My copy of this guide goes on to inform me that they have a, ‘… drink-and-be merry-for-tomorrow-we-die’, mood. I notice it’s not we-may-die! I’m guessing that the monumental shifts in geopolitics, that took place after the collapse of the Iron Curtain, since then, will enhance my chances of survival. My Frommer suggests that the situation back in the late seventies had ‘… frightened some Americans …’ and resulted in it being much cheaper than West Germany.
My first challenge was getting there – more of that story in the CaneYetAble Blog (dated 28th February 2020). Having survived a difficult day on the Belgian and German railway systems I picked up a taxi at Berlin Hauptbahnhof and learned that their taxi drivers are as obsessed by Uber as Edinburgh taxi drivers. However, after the standard rant (I wondered if there was a fare category that excluded the Uber rap!) the driver told me he was a socialist, he liked Angela Merkel (Chancellor at that time) but thought it was time for a change. The massive cost of reunification came up – ‘The roads are better in the old GDR now!’. He was Jewish and told me his grandfather was 97 years old and had survived Auschwitz. I wondered to myself at the changes his family had witnessed, after all my old guidebook had witnessed a fairly head spinning set of changes and it was less than half the age of his grandfather. However, he did say Berlin was cheap and as such very popular with young tourists from all over the world – obviously they expected to return to their homes in one piece, so I relaxed and checked into my hotel with confidence.
The hotel was, I later read, just round the corner from Kürfurstendamm, where, in the chaos of the last days of April 1945, the SS had , ‘ …entered houses flying the white flag of surrender … shooting everyone in them’. Hitler was in his Führerbunker dictating his last will and testament, Russian soldiers were roaming the streets causing mayhem, panicked civilians and German soldiers were trying to make their final escape as Soviet artillery rained down on the city. I dropped off my stuff in the nice spacious room and went down to the bar.
What, I wondered, would Berlin feel like after reading all those horror stories. How did they manage to rebuild the place after the destruction of the later days of the second world war and the turmoil of the Cold War?
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